Reinventing Detroit

We arrived in Detroit yesterday, the ancestral homelands of three Anishinaabe nations of the Council of Three Fires: the Ojibwe, Ottawa, and Potawatomi. Detroit drew immigrants of many nationalities including Italians, English, Germans, Polish, Irish, Mexicans, Middle Easterners, Africans, and Greeks.  Our downtown hotel is near the Corktown neighborhood, named after County Cork, Ireland the oldest existing neighborhood in the city.[2][3] Many Irish folk immigrated to the United States during the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840’s and at that time the Irish were the largest ethnic group settling in Detroit. By the Civil War, German immigrants had begun making inroads into the Corktown neighborhood.[5] By the turn of the century, the original Irish population had diffused through the city, and new immigrants, notably Mexican and Maltese, moved into this older housing.[5] As the century progressed, migrants from the American South and Appalachia, both Black and  white, came to the city for good paying jobs in the automobile industry.[5]  As these jobs were shipped overseas, the people left also. For the past 40 years, Detroit has been the largest Black majority city in the U.S. with 76% Black population, but due to the drastic loss of population in Detroit, Memphis may now the largest Black majority city. As jobs left the city, poverty increased and the city went bankrupt.

There are still many parts of Detroit that are abandoned still, but there is revitalization happening. An example of that is the Detroit Riverwalk, built through a public-private partnership to clean-up a five mile abandoned industrial area along the Detroit river. The strip right along the river is very nice walkway now, where we enjoyed seeing people biking, walking dogs and children playing. Right behind the walk way are miles of abandoned GM parking lots.

View right behind the Detroit Riverwalk

The fact that Detroit has so many vacant sites is a blight on the city, but also an opportunity. They may be a step ahead of other cities in building a new green infrastructure. For example, the City of Detroit Office of Sustainability is seeking block clubs and community groups to host solar fields on large parcels of vacant land to power city buildings. The Solar Company incentivizes it by giving back to the community – for a 10 acre site, the neighborhood group gets to decide what to do with $250,000. You can listen to the Mayor’s speech about it here.

According to an interesting National Geographic article, multibillionaire Dan Gilbert is Detroit’s sugar daddy. Gilbert, who founded Quicken Loans, bought more than 70 properties (mostly downtown and ripe for rehab), seeded dozens of start-ups, and employs an estimated 12,500 people.

Keep Growing Detroit is an organization with a mission “to cultivate a food sovereign city where the majority of fruits and vegetables consumed by Detroiters are grown by residents within the city’s limits”.

It will be interesting to watch Detroit’s evolution. It could be a good place for the young and adventurous to land.

Welcome to Paradise

In case you did not know, Paradise is in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan on the shores of Lake Superior. It may not be quite as you envisioned it.

Paradise has a tiny school

A library

A grocery store

A coffee shop

and a Chamber if Commerce tourist center

They have their own language and food. The Michigan upper peninsula is known as “da UP”. The people who live here are called “yoopers” and they call folks who live in lower Michigan ” trolls” cause they live under the (Mackinac) bridge.

They are fond of eating pasties filled with beef, carrots and potatoes, a lot like empanadas.

The main pastimes here are hunting, fishing, camping and snowmobiling. Paradise is nothing like Ithaca, except there are beautiful waterfall here too.

Tahquemenon State Park Upper Falls

Mackinac Island: Horse Poop and Cedar

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We took the ferry to Mackinac Island. There were six foot waves, which made the boat trip quite exciting.

This island is the only place in the U.S. where vehicles are not allowed. People get around on bikes and horse drawn wagons. The predominant scents of the island are horse poop and Northern White Cedar. Fortunately, we spent most of our time biking where the cedars prevailed, along with magnificent views of Lake Michigan.

Mackinac Straights and Mackinac Bridge, which we went over to Upper Peninsula.

We recommend doing the eight-mile bike tour around the circumference of the island. It is flat, easy cycling with lots of points of interest along the way.

We took a nature walk through a wetland and Northern Boreal forest featuring dense White Cedar, Larch and Black Spruce.

We stayed at the Lakeview Hotel, one of the oldest hotels on the island.

On to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, known as the UP.

Heading North

We decided to go to airbnb in Charlevoix to escape 40 mph winds and rain at campsite.

Not fun to break camp in the rain.

We had an interesting conversation with Art, a retired physician and our camping neighbor. He told us about growing up Native American (Odawa) and Polish in Northern Michigan. He also told us interesting stories about being an emergency room physician.

Amber was a most gracious host at the Charlevoix House, which is right near the lighthouse, draw bridge and mushroom houses

Sleeping Bear Dunes

Sleeping Bear Dunes map.png

We are finally camping. Today we hiked and biked, which felt great.

Our campsite before coffee.

Heritage bike trail at Sleeping Bear Dune National Park.

There was a spectacular view from the top of the sand dune.

We took my Uncle’s advice and decided not to do the climb down to the water!

Our Midwest Adventure Begins

Tomorrow we will leave for our 24 day midwest adventure through Ontario, Michigan, Wisconsin and Ohio. Along the way we will visit family, camp, bike and report about what we learn along the way. Stay tuned!

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