John Brown’s Legacy

Today we went to Harpers Ferry National Park in West Virginia. Harpers Ferry is where John Brown took his last stand against slavery, He attempted to take the federal army at Harpers Ferry in order to lead a slave rebellion and create an armed underground railroad. The fire engine station (shown in the picture above) was used by John Brown and his army of 21 men as their fort. It was where they were captured and some were killed on October 18, 1859. He was hung shortly after. John Brown’s last written words predicting the Civil War were: “I, John Brown, am now quite certain that the crimes of this guilty land will never be purged away but with blood”.

John Brown

I have been interested in John Brown for a long time, especially after reading the book, Cloudsplitter, by Russel Means. It is written as historical fiction, from the perspective of his son and based on historical documents. I feel a bit guilty admiring John Brown so much since violence goes against my Quaker beliefs. Nonetheless, his steadfast dedication to the abolition cause, in spite of major hardships in his life is an inspiration.


Thomas Hovenden, The Last Moments of John Brown (detail), 1182, oil on canvas, 196.5 x 168.3 cm. Courtesy The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
At an anti-slavery convention in Chatham, Ontario, John Brown presented a new constitution abolishing slavery.

While the whole plan at Harper’s Ferry was ill conceived, it did have the support and financial backing of well-heeled abolitionists and the support of Frederick Douglass, who knew of the plan.Harriet Tubman thought very highly of John Brown as well. Brown intended to create a corridor on the underground railroad. By arming abolitionists and freed enslaved people, safer passage to freedom could be provided.

After John Brown was executed in Charlestown, VA, a funeral procession embarked across six states. The funeral train, carrying his coffin traveled through a divided nation teetering on the brink of civil war. John Brown was laid to rest at his farm in North Elba, New York, in the Adirondacks. His body lay in state at the Adam’s Hotel in Elizabethtown, NY (near North Elba). I am proud to say that one of my ancestors, ACH Livingston (an abolitionist from the area) served as a poll bearer. On December 8, 1959 John Brown was laid to rest. John Brown’s Farm and grave is now a State Historic Site.

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What the heck is an Iron Bloomery?

Iron making evolved over a few thousand years. Using the ancient “bloomery” method, iron ore was converted directly into wrought iron by heating the ore while at the same time melting the ore’s impurities and squeezing them out with hand hammers. The bloomery furnace differs from a modern blast furnace because it does not actually melt iron. The bloomery operates at lower temperatures but still achieves the same result of separating metallic iron from undesirable elements.

We passed this iron bloomer ruin by the side of the road near PawPaw, West Virginia.

Bloomery Gap Iron Bloomery

It was built in 1838, and produced up to 8500 tons of iron annually that was carried on rafts and flatboats down the Cacapon River, a tributary of the Potomac River.

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A. Philip Randolph and the First Black Labor Union

A. Philip Randolph is known for his co-leadership of the 1963 March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom, where over 250,000 protesters marched for an end to segregation in public accommodations, decent housing, integrated education and the right to vote.

What many people do not know is that 22 years earlier, on January 25th, 1941, A Philip Randolph, as president of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters, called for a massive protest march in Washington to end racial segregation and discriminatory hiring in WWII defense industries and the U.S. military. Tens of thousands of Black men were prepared to march. This resulted in President Franklin D. Roosevelt signing Executive Order 8802 that banned discrimination in defense contracts and created the Fair Employment Practices Committee (FEPC). Randolph then called off the march- proving that mass economic and political pressure could force federal action on civil rights, laying the groundwork for the civil rights movement that followed.

Twenty years before that, Randolph organized the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters union, the first successful Black led labor union. This union served porters working on the Pullman Company railroads. Porters were subjected to poor working conditions including long hours on little sleep, low wages and dehumanizing treatment Although it took twelve years, the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters was successful in achieving higher wages for workers, a shorter work month, and the right to a hearing before discharge.

Philips proved to be a talented and tenacious organizer over and over again. In addition to his role as president of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters and as a civil rights leader, Randolph contributed to the labor movement as the vice-president of the American Federation of Labor and Congress of Industrial Organizations (AFL-CIO) in 1955 and served on the council until 1974.

The A. Philip Randolph Pullman Porter Museum, in the Pullman neighborhood of Chicago was closed for renovations. But we will make sure to visit it in the future.

Pullman: A Company Town in Chicago

On our way into Chicago we stopped by Pullman National Historical Park on Chicago’s South Side. It was the first model, planned industrial community in the United States, built in the 1880s by George Pullman for employees of his railroad company, the Pullman Place Car Company. The row houses were comfortable by standards of the day, with indoor plumbing, gas, and sewers, but Pullman was quite paternalistic toward his workers. establishing behavioral standards they had to meet to live there, such as no alcohol. The Arcade building, was built to be the social and commercial heart of the community. It contained stores, YMCA, barbershops, professional offices, a bank, a post office, a library and a 1,000 seat theater. It was a complete company town and Pullman controlled all aspects of workers’ lives.

According to the National Park Service, the town of Pullman was ethnically diverse, with fewer than half of the residents in 1885 being native-born Americans. Many were English, Dutch, German, Irish, and Scandinavian. Though the Pullman Company employed Black men and women to work as porters and maids, the town had very few , if any, Black residents. “The company itself actually had no restriction on race [when it came to] who would live in the town of Pullman,” said Sue Bennett, assistant superintendent of the Pullman National Monument. “But let’s face it: There were societal limitations based on race.” It is interesting to note that today, the Pullman neighborhood is equal part Black, Latino and White residents. (Chicago Sun-Times)

Following the Panic of 1893, the demand for sleeping cars was greatly reduced. Pullman laid off hundreds of workers and switched many more to pay-per-piece work; wages were reduced by 25-30%. He did not, however, reduce the rent charged in his company town or lower charges for food or gas, causing hardship for workers.Workers responded by striking.(Wikipedia)

The Pullman Strike was initiated in 1894, and it lasted for 2 months, When company management fired grievance delegates, workers walked out and joined the American Railway Union (ARU) led by Eugene V. Debs, launching a sympathy boycott of all trains using Pullman cars. The boycott spread to 27 states, involving up to 250,000 workers and effectively halted midwestern and national rail traffic, eventually leading to intervention by the US government and military. President Grover Cleveland ordered the Army to stop the strikers from obstructing trains. Strike leader Eugene V. Debs was arrested and convicted of conspiracy and violation of a court order and sentenced to six months in prison. The boycott collapsed and the ARU was effectively destroyed. In an attempt to reconcile with angry American workers, President Cleveland signed legislation making Labor Day a federal holiday.

A view of the Pullman community in 1915 Image: Chicago History Museum, ICHi-059537

Two years after Pullman’s 1897 death, the town of Pullman was annexed to Chicago after the Illinois Supreme Court ordered the company to give up ownership of the town, arguing that the company’s charter stipulated it was only for manufacturing, and owning the town operated outside of that charter.

Historic Pullman is now a national model for community revitalization. You can read more about it here.

University Park, Illinois: A Model Planned Community or a Failed Public Policy?

Yesterday day we drove through University Park, Ill (originally named Park Forest South) a suburb 30 miles South of downtown Chicago. We wanted to visit because this community is one of 15 communities around the country that was funded by The New Communities Act of 1968 with integration in mind. This new model aimed to engage the private sector in creating large-scale, self-contained, balanced communities that provided housing, jobs, and open spaces. New communities were required to have a broad range of housing- providing opportunities for everyone from janitors to presidents of corporations.

According to the municipal website, University Park features a championship golf course, walking and biking paths, hiking trails, and a 30-acre lake. Home values and monthly rents are significantly lower than the national average, making it accessible for first-time buyers. (livability.com) According to recent census data, 61% of homes are owner-occupied, slightly less than the Illinois state average of 67%.

What we witnessed is somewhat different than what I had hoped and expected.. University Park now is an odd cross between a typical suburb and a ghost town. The municipal offices are in a mostly abandoned mall and University Park is now considered a food dessert. There are some nice, well kept homes on some blocks, while others have fallen into disrepair and appear unmaintained. There were few renovations or updates to the properties- many houses seem to be stuck in the 1970s. Originally planned for 100,000 people, the population now hovers around 7,000.

The New Communities legislation was passed in the last days of the Johnson Administration. The act came on the heels of major riots across cities throughout the U.S. in 1967, the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.in April 1968, and the publication of the report of the Kerner Commission that recommended major expansions in public funding and support of urban areas.

Unfortunately, a 1973 federal subsidy moratorium by the Nixon administration largely halted the program’s momentum after a limited number of new communities received federal backing.The initial funding of $500 million was reduced to $250 million.Jonathan, Minnesota and University Parkdevelopments were the first to utilize this funding. The recession coupled with inflation contributed to the problem. The program was dismantled in the fall of 1978, three years after even its modest objectives had been jettisoned in an effort to bolster the precarious financial positions of individual projects. According to its former administrator, the program was “reduced to a salvage operation in exactly four years.”(Cities and City Planning, 1981)

While University Park , originally started with a more balanced racial mix, decades of demographic shifts transformed the suburb into a majority-Black community. According to a recent data from U.S. Census Quickfacts, University Park is 85% Black, 10% White, 5% mixed race and 6% Hispanic (any race). The Mayor, Town Board and Sheriff are all Black.

Clearly, University Park did not live up to the lofty vision of the New Communities Act, largely due to loss of funding. But is University Park a failed community? I don’t think so. The median home value sits around $126,600 to $180,000, making it relatively affordable compared to many Chicago metro suburbs. Residents have access to Metra and Pace public transit lines connecting to the broader Chicago area. It is home to Governors State University and includes access to local schooling options such as Southland College Prep Charter High School (rated A- on Niche) For someone looking for an affordable Black suburb, I think University Park may have possibilities.

 

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame

Today was music immersion at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. I will say that it would not be a place for someone who is easily overstimulated as it is an explosion of music. They start with the roots of rock and roll – country blues, gospel and jazz, which was really interesting to us. We learned that the term “rock and roll” was coined in Memphis. The museum is organized chronologically , taking you from Memphis to Detroit’s mo-town sound to London/Liverpool, San Francisco psychedelic scene, LA folk rock, and finally Seattle grunge and punk.

There was a Soul Train room where we got to rewatch great acts (and dancing) on this tv show from our youth.

After we got our fill of music and memorabilia, we went to the garage band floor and make our own music.

A good way to spend the day in Cleveland!

On the Road Again

Join us on our annual trek to Wisconsin to visit Sebby and Jayne. We will take our time on the road and share what we find along the way. Foliage seems peak in places- beautiful, especially when the sun peaks out lighting up the trees. Heading to Cleveland tonight. Will be reporting from the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame tomorrow.

The Summer Sons: Cape Cod Baseball League

On a Cape Cod summer evening, on many a high school baseball field, you can enjoy our national pastime of yore for free. You will find packed bleachers, a small snack shop cooking up burgers and hot dogs, and picnic blankets and beach chairs ringing the area. Local community volunteers run the whole thing- from welcoming folks at the entrance to fundraising to hosting players in their homes. The coach and trainers get a stipend, but other than that, no one gets paid. It is all done for the love of the game.

We witnessed the culmination of the season-ending playoffs of theCape Cod Baseball League between Harwich Mariners and the Bourn Braves. The Mariners won in the rubber match in the three game series. I have been persuaded to write about the Cape Cod League by the avid baseball fans in my midst and I am channeling John here because , as many of you know, I am not much of a baseball fan!

The Cape Cod Baseball League (CCBL or Cape League) is a collegiate summer baseball wooden bat league. One of the nation’s premier collegiate summer leagues, thousands of players have spent a summer on the Cape before later donning a big league uniform. That includes Hall of Famers like Frank Thomas and Jeff Bagwell and former stars like Nomar Garciaparra, Thurman Munson, Barry Zito and Jason Varitek. Current stars- including Aaron Judge, Pete Alonso, Chris Sale and George Springer- all wore jerseys for Cape Cod Summer League.

As early as the 1860s, baseball teams representing various Cape Cod towns and villages were competing against one another. The earliest newspaper account is of an 1867 game in Sandwich between the hometown “Nichols Club” and the visiting Cummaquid team. Though not formalized as a league, the games provided entertainment for residents and summer visitors.

Players in the Cape Cod all live with host families who live on the Cape, becoming members of those families along the way. Hosts often refer to them as their “summer sons”.

“The league has enabled people to come together under the auspices of baseball, and build deep and abiding relationships,” says Boston Globe journalist Christopher Price, author of Baseball by the Beach: A History of America’s National Pastime on Cape Cod. Price’s grandparents met at a Barnstable game in the 1930s. “The game connects generations over time. That’s a legacy that any sport would be proud of.”

Provincetown Portuguese Bakery: 90 Years of Delicious

One my favorite places to visit in Provincetown is the Portuguese Bakery at 299 Commercial Street. It has delicious, traditional Portuguese food and an interesting history.

Before becoming a mecca for artists and gay partiers, Provincetown was a bustling fishing community. Portuguese fishermen began immigrating here around 1900 and brought with them their language, customs, faith, and culinary traditions, all of which became woven into the fabric of Provincetown life.

Opened around 1900, the bakery initially sold just bread and staples to working families and fisherman going out to sea. It was established as the Portuguese Bakery by Antonio Brito in 1936 and has been in business for 90 years, run by a a succession of Portuguese families. The business became known for authentic Portuguese breads and pastries.

Malassadas, a favorite Portuguese fry dough is one of the most popular pasteries, fried up for all to see in the front window of the shop. The recipe has been passed down through the generations.  “Mal assada “ means “undercooked” in Portuguese, which refers to the fried sweet’s golden-brown exterior that gives way to a soft, doughy inside.

In addition to malassadas, favorites include pasteis de nata, Portuguese custard tarts; sweet bread; Bolas de Berlim; almond pastries; and numerous regional specialties inspired by recipes from Portugal and the Azores.

Next time you are in Provincetown, MA, make sure you make a stop in the Portuguese Bakery. You won’t regret it!

Cape Cod Cranberry Culture

We are again staying in Harwich, a charming town on Cape Cod Nantucket Sound. While tourism is the main economic driver now, the cranberry played a vital role in its early economy.

The Monomoyick  and Nauset Native American communities used wild cranberries for food, medicine, and as a dye long before European settlers arrived. The Native Americans taught the Pilgrims how to make Pemmican using crushed wild cranberries mixed with dried meat and melted animal fat to create a high-protein winter survival ration (the original power bar), medicinal poultices to draw poison from arrow wounds, and vibrant red dyes for textiles and rugs.

Cranberries do best in bogs, low shallow bowls of acidic peat soil, where plenty of sand and water are available. The composition of a cranberry bog is unique and consists of four layers, clay, gravel, peat and sand in ascending order. Each performs an important function to the overall ability of the bog to thrive. By the turn of the 19th century, residents had staked out their bogs, or “Cranberry Yards,” and families would typically harvest their supplies of the berries from them.

Eventually, Harwich led the way to introducing the cranberry to the world by producing the first crop for commercial sale. n 1846, Captain Alvin Cahoon is credited with producing the first such crop from a bog near Pleasant Lake. The venture spread quickly, with others in other towns, counties and states planting their own bogs and producing their own crops for the growing markets.

At the turn of the 20th century, North Harwich became home to many Cape Verde people who first worked in the cranberry industry, and then became bog owners and prominent members of the Harwich community. Many Cape Verdeans were fishermen and farmers. As the whaling industry declined in the late 1800’s, the cranberry industry meant economic survival on Cape Cod provided a needed source of income to many families during the economically depressed decades following the Civil War.

Do Seagulls Have Noses?

We were lounging at Nauset Beach, one of my favorite Cape Cod beaches, when I began to wonder whether seagulls had a keen sense of smell. Is this how they just know I have tasty morsels of food in my swimming bag?

It turns out the answer is yes, they do have a nose of sorts. The two slits on their upper beak, called nares, let them breathe and pick up the scents coming from my swimming bag.

I am told you can look into one nare and see right through to the other side of the beak. I tried to witness this but the gulls did not cooperate with my experiment, in spite of how close they like to get to my swimming bag.

Another interesting fact I learned is that gulls drink salt water and it is excreted through their nares. Salt glands located above a gull’s eyes remove excess salt from their bloodstream.. These salty nasal secretions often are channeled down the beak via grooves where they drip off the tip of the beak

That is about all I learned about sea gull noses today. Thanks for reading! Stay tuned for some more interesting Cape Cod discoveries tomorrow!

What is a sand flea really?

In New York and Massachusetts we talk about being bitten by sand fleas when sunbathing on beaches. They leave very itchy little bumps around the ankles. It turns out these are insects sand flies or mites, not sand fleas.

Today I learned that sand fleas are not fleas. They are small shrimp-like crustaceans, but without claws- and they don’t bite. They are called fleas because they hop and jump. Fishermen use a basket to dig in the tidal sand and catch them for bate.

They are used for surf fishing to catch pompano, redfish, sheepshead, and striped bass. You can also cook them up and eat them. Cook them in butter with seasoning until they turn orange. They are considered a crunchy, shrimp-like delicacy, best cooked live and seasoned with options like Old Bay, Dano’s, or Cajun spices. 

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